Master all 10 professional training methods to maximize yields, control plant shape, and optimize canopy management. From beginner-friendly LST to advanced Schwazzing - step-by-step instructions, visual diagrams, timing schedules, and equipment recommendations.
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The Foundation of Plant Training - Turn 1 Cola Into 2+
BEGINNER
📖 What It Is
Topping is the process of removing the main growing tip (apical meristem) of the plant by making a clean cut above a node. This removes apical dominance and forces the plant to split energy between two new main colas instead of one, creating a bushier, wider plant with more bud sites.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Wait for 4-6 nodes: Plant must be healthy and developed enough to handle stress
Sterilize scissors/blade: Clean with isopropyl alcohol to prevent infection
Identify the cut point: Cut ABOVE the 3rd-4th node (between nodes, not through them)
Make the cut: One clean slice through the main stem, removing the top growth tip
Optional: Save the cutting for cloning if desired
Monitor recovery: New growth will appear from the two nodes below the cut within 3-7 days
⏰ When to Do It
Timing: Vegetative stage only, after 4-6 nodes have developed (usually 3-4 weeks from seed)
Recovery Time: 3-7 days of slowed growth, then rapid new growth from two tops
Multiple Toppings: Can be repeated 2-3 more times (top each new main cola) to create 4, 8, or 16 colas. Allow 7-10 days recovery between toppings.
💡 How It Works
Plants naturally exhibit "apical dominance" - the main top grows fastest and suppresses lower growth. By removing the main tip, you eliminate this hormonal signal. Auxins (growth hormones) redistribute to the two nodes below the cut, causing them to become new main colas. The plant becomes bushier instead of tall and stretchy.
✓ Pros
Doubles main colas (2, 4, 8, 16...)
Controls height effectively
Creates even canopy
Increases total yield
Simple and fast to perform
Works on all strains
✗ Cons
High-stress technique
3-7 day recovery period
Extends veg time by 1-2 weeks
Risk of infection if tools not sterile
Can stunt weak/young plants
Not reversible once cut
🔗 Combines Well With
LST (bend the new tops outward), SCROG (fill screen faster with multiple tops), Lollipopping (remove lower growth to focus energy on topped colas)
Visual Guide: Where to Cut
2. FIMming
"F*ck I Missed" - The Accidental Topping Technique That Creates 4 Tops
BEGINNER
📖 What It Is
FIMming (an acronym for "F*ck, I Missed") is a variation of topping where you remove only 75-80% of the new growth tip instead of cutting completely through the stem. This "incomplete" topping causes the plant to produce 4 (sometimes 3 or 5) new main colas instead of just 2. Legend says it was discovered by accident when a grower "missed" their topping cut.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Wait for 3-5 nodes: Slightly earlier than topping is OK
Sterilize tools: Clean scissors or use sterile fingers
Locate newest growth: Find the very newest leaves at the growing tip
Pinch/cut 75%: Remove about 3/4 of the newest growth (leave small base intact)
Don't cut through stem: You're removing leafy growth, not cutting the main stem
Watch for 4 new tops: New growth emerges from multiple points within 5-7 days
⏰ When to Do It
Timing: Vegetative stage, after 3-5 nodes (can be done slightly earlier than topping)
Recovery Time: 5-7 days, often recovers faster than full topping
Multiple FIMs: Can FIM each of the 4 new tops to create 16+ colas (very bushy plants)
💡 How It Works
By removing most (but not all) of the growing tip, you damage the apical meristem without completely removing it. This confuses the plant's hormone system, causing multiple new growth points to activate simultaneously. The result is typically 4 new tops instead of 2. It's less precise than topping but causes less stress.
✓ Pros
Creates 4 tops from 1 (vs 2 from topping)
Less stress than full topping
Faster recovery (5-7 days)
No need for precise cutting
Can be done with fingers (no tools)
Excellent for creating bushy plants
✗ Cons
Results vary (sometimes 3, 4, or 5 tops)
Less predictable than topping
Can look messy during recovery
Requires practice to get right
Still extends veg time
May not work as well on all strains
🔗 Combines Well With
LST (spread the 4 new tops), SCROG (excellent for filling screens quickly), Defoliation (open up the dense center after FIMming)
Visual Guide: FIM vs Topping Cut Location
⚠️ Pro Tip: The "Imperfect" Cut
FIMming works BECAUSE it's imprecise. Don't worry about making a "perfect" cut - you're intentionally damaging (not removing) the growing tip. Some growers use fingernails instead of scissors. As long as you remove 75-80% of the newest growth and leave some tissue behind, it will work.
3. LST (Low Stress Training)
Bend, Don't Break - Create an Even Canopy Without Cutting
BEGINNER
📖 What It Is
Low Stress Training (LST) is the practice of gently bending and securing plant branches to manipulate their shape and growth direction. By tying down the main stem and branches horizontally, you expose lower growth sites to more light, creating an even canopy where all bud sites receive equal light intensity. It's called "low stress" because you never cut the plant.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Start early: Begin when plant is 3-4 weeks old (still flexible)
Anchor the base: Secure the pot or use stakes to prevent tipping
Bend the main stem: Gently bend the main stem at 90° angle toward pot edge
Tie down: Use soft plant ties to secure bent stem to pot edge or stake
Expose lower sites: Continue bending side branches outward in spiral pattern
Daily adjustments: Check ties every 1-2 days, adjust as plant grows
Create even canopy: Keep all growing tips at same height
Stop before flower: Final adjustments in early flower, then let it grow
⏰ When to Do It
Timing: Start in early veg (week 3-4), continue throughout veg and into early flower (first 2 weeks of flower)
Frequency: Daily to every 2-3 days adjustments as plant grows
💡 How It Works
Plants grow toward light (phototropism). When you bend the main stem horizontally, the plant responds by redirecting growth hormones to lower branches, causing them to grow upward to compete for the "new" main top position. This breaks apical dominance without cutting. The result is many equal-height tops instead of one dominant cola.
✓ Pros
Zero stress - no cutting required
No recovery time needed
Can be started very early
Creates even canopy naturally
Increases yield without extending veg
Works on all strains (esp. stretchy sativas)
Reversible if done wrong
Best for small spaces (controls height)
✗ Cons
Requires daily attention
Labor intensive (constant adjustments)
Must be done gently to avoid snapping
Ties can restrict growth if too tight
Less effective on woody/mature stems
Can be difficult with many plants
🔗 Combines Well With
Topping/FIMming (LST the new tops), SCROG (LST + screen = maximum control), Lollipopping (remove shaded lower growth), Super Cropping (bend stubborn branches)
Visual Guide: LST Bending Pattern
⚠️ Avoid These LST Mistakes
1. Bending too aggressively: If you hear a crack, you've gone too far. Bend slowly over multiple days. 2. Ties too tight: Plant will grow - ties must have slack or they'll strangle branches. Check every 2 days. 3. Starting too late: Woody stems don't bend well. Start while stems are still green and flexible. 4. Forgetting to adjust: LST requires daily/every-other-day attention. Set reminders.
4. SCROG (Screen of Green)
The Screen Method - Maximum Light Efficiency & Yield Control
INTERMEDIATE
📖 What It Is
SCROG (Screen of Green) is a training method where you install a horizontal screen/net above your plants and weave growing branches through the openings. As branches grow through the screen, you tuck them back under and redirect them horizontally until the screen is 70-80% filled. Then you flip to flower, allowing vertical growth. This creates a uniform canopy where every bud site gets maximum light.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Install screen: Place 2x2" or 3x3" netting 8-12" above pots in late veg
Grow to screen: Let plants grow naturally until they reach the net
First tuck: When branches grow 2-3" above screen, gently bend and tuck them back under
Weave horizontally: Redirect tucked branches through adjacent screen openings
Repeat daily: Continue tucking and weaving as plant grows (2-3 weeks of training)
Fill the screen: Aim for 70-80% screen coverage before flipping to flower
Flip to flower: When screen is full, change to 12/12 light cycle
Final tucks: Continue tucking for first 2 weeks of flower (the "stretch")
Stop tucking: After stretch ends, let buds grow vertically above screen
Lollipop below screen: Remove all growth below the screen (won't get light)
⏰ When to Do It
Screen Install: Late veg, when plants are 8-10" tall
Training Period: 2-4 weeks of tucking before flower, plus first 2 weeks of flower
Screen Height: 8-12" above pots (lower for indica, higher for sativa)
Mesh Size: 2x2" squares (tight control) or 3x3" (easier tucking, less work)
💡 How It Works
The screen forces you to create a horizontal canopy by preventing vertical growth. By constantly tucking branches back under and redirecting them, you expose more bud sites to direct light and force the plant to create more lateral branches. When you finally allow vertical growth (after flip), every tucked site becomes a main cola. The result is dozens of equal-size colas instead of one big top and many small ones.
✓ Pros
Maximum light efficiency (every site gets direct light)
Huge yield increase (30-40%+)
Perfect for small tent grows
Controls plant height precisely
Even canopy = consistent bud size
Great for single plant grows (fill entire tent)
Works with all training methods (top/FIM/LST)
✗ Cons
Very labor intensive (daily tucking)
Extends veg time (need to fill screen)
Plants locked in place (hard to move)
Difficult to access individual plants
Not ideal for perpetual harvests
Must lollipop heavily (work under screen)
Requires planning and setup
🔗 Combines Well With
Topping/FIMming (create multiple tops to fill screen faster), LST (train branches to screen), Lollipopping (essential - remove everything below screen), Defoliation (open up dense SCROG canopy)
Visual Guide: SCROG Training Timeline
⚠️ SCROG Golden Rules
1. Don't flip too early: Screen should be 70-80% full before flipping. Plants will stretch and fill remaining space. 2. Lollipop EVERYTHING below screen: No light reaches there - those buds will be larfy. Remove them. 3. Tuck during stretch: First 2 weeks of flower, keep tucking aggressively. After that, stop. 4. Use proper screen height: 8-10" for indica, 10-12" for sativa. Too low = cramped, too high = wasted space.
5. SOG (Sea of Green)
Many Small Plants - Fast Turnaround, Maximum Efficiency
BEGINNER
📖 What It Is
Sea of Green (SOG) is a cultivation strategy where you grow many small plants (9-16+ per square meter) instead of fewer large plants. Each plant gets minimal vegetative time (1-2 weeks) before flipping to flower, resulting in a "sea" of single-cola plants that finish quickly. SOG maximizes harvests per year rather than yield per plant.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Start with clones: Use rooted clones (all same strain) for uniformity - seeds take too long
Small containers: Use 1-2 gallon pots max (plants stay small)
Pack them in: Space plants 6-12" apart (9-16 per 4x4 tent)
Minimal veg: Veg for only 1-2 weeks after rooting (just until 8-12" tall)
Flip early: Switch to 12/12 when plants are still small
No training needed: Let them grow naturally as single colas (maybe light LST)
Lollipop lightly: Remove only lowest 1-2 nodes worth of growth
Harvest quickly: Plants finish 1-2 weeks faster than large plants
Perpetual harvest: Start new clones every 2 weeks for continuous harvests
⏰ When to Do It
Veg Time: 1-2 weeks only (fastest turnaround)
Flower Time: Same as normal, but plants finish faster (smaller = quicker ripening)
Total Time: Seed to harvest in 10-12 weeks (vs 14-16 for normal grows)
Best For: Commercial operations, perpetual harvests, limited height spaces
💡 How It Works
Instead of training one plant to produce 10 colas, you grow 10 plants with 1 cola each. By flipping to flower early, you eliminate weeks of vegetative growth. The trade-off is more plants to manage, but each individual plant is simpler (no training, no topping). The result is the same yield per square foot, achieved faster, with less labor per plant.
✓ Pros
Fastest seed-to-harvest time (10-12 weeks)
Minimal training required (just grow)
Perfect for perpetual harvests
Easier to manage than large plants
Great for limited height (short plants)
Clones allow consistency
More harvests per year = more total yield
Less risky (one sick plant = smaller loss)
✗ Cons
Higher plant counts (legal issues in some areas)
More plants = more work (watering, feeding)
Requires constant clone supply
Individual yields are tiny
Less forgiving of mistakes (small plants = less buffer)
Not ideal for photoperiods from seed
More pots, more medium, more transplanting
🔗 Combines Well With
Light LST (open up single cola), Lollipopping (remove lowest nodes), Hydro systems (fast growth = faster harvests), Cloning (essential for SOG consistency)
Visual Guide: SOG vs Traditional Growing
⚠️ SOG Legal Considerations
Check your local laws! SOG requires high plant counts (9-16+ plants per grow). Many jurisdictions have plant count limits that make SOG illegal even if total yield is the same. In places with plant limits, SCROG (1-4 large plants) may be legally safer than SOG (12+ small plants). Know your laws before starting SOG.
6. Mainlining / Manifolding
The Symmetrical Hub - 8-16 Perfectly Equal Colas
ADVANCED
📖 What It Is
Mainlining (also called manifolding) is an advanced training technique that creates a symmetrical "hub" structure with 8, 16, or 32 perfectly equal main colas. You top the plant early, remove ALL growth below the top, then repeatedly top each new branch while maintaining perfect symmetry. The result looks like a hub-and-spoke wheel where every cola receives equal nutrients through equally-sized "pipes."
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1 - First top (3rd node): Top above 3rd node when plant has 5-6 nodes
Step 2 - Strip everything: Remove ALL growth below the top (nodes 1-3) - keep only the 2 tops
Step 3 - Let them grow: Wait until each of the 2 branches has 3-4 nodes (7-10 days)
Step 4 - Top both branches: Top each branch above its 3rd node - now you have 4 tops
Step 5 - Strip again: Remove all growth below the new tops on each branch
Step 6 - Repeat (optional): Wait, top all 4 branches = 8 tops. Repeat again = 16 tops
Step 7 - LST the manifold: Spread the branches evenly in a circle, keeping perfect symmetry
Step 8 - Flip to flower: When all tops are even height and canopy is full
Step 9 - Lollipop: Remove all growth on the "pipes" - energy goes only to the tops
⏰ When to Do It
Start: Week 3-4 of veg (first top)
Total Training Time: 4-6 weeks (for 8-16 colas)
Recovery Between Tops: 7-10 days between each topping
Best For: Patient growers who want perfectly even colas and maximum yield per plant
💡 How It Works
Traditional plants have a "Christmas tree" structure - main stem with branches of varying sizes. Mainlining eliminates this by creating a central hub where every branch is equidistant from the root system. Because all branches are the same length and thickness, nutrients distribute perfectly equally. It's like creating a custom plant skeleton optimized for even growth. The trade-off is extended veg time, but the result is unmatched cola uniformity.
✓ Pros
Perfect cola uniformity (every bud same size)
Clean, symmetrical structure (beautiful plants)
Maximum yield efficiency per cola
Easier to manage (all tops at same height)
Great for SCROG (fills screen evenly)
No larf - all energy to main colas
Impressive results (8-16 massive colas)
✗ Cons
VERY long veg time (4-6+ weeks training)
High stress (multiple toppings + stripping)
Slow process (requires patience)
Not beginner-friendly
One mistake breaks symmetry
Removes lots of growth (slows early growth)
Lower total yield than SOG (time vs reward)
🔗 Combines Well With
LST (essential for spreading manifold evenly), SCROG (perfect fit - even tops fill screen perfectly), Lollipopping (essential - remove all growth on the "pipes")
Visual Guide: Mainlining Process (8-Cola Manifold)
⚠️ Mainlining: Patience Required
Mainlining is NOT a fast technique. Expect 4-6 weeks of training time (multiple toppings, recovery periods, LST). The payoff is stunning symmetry and perfectly even colas, but if you're in a hurry, stick to simple topping + LST. Mainlining is for growers who value perfection over speed. First-time mainliners: Start with 4 or 8 colas. 16+ colas adds weeks of veg time.
7. Super Cropping
Bend Until It Breaks (Inside) - Stress Response = Bigger Buds
INTERMEDIATE
📖 What It Is
Super cropping is a high-stress technique where you gently squeeze and bend a branch until the inner fibers break (but outer skin remains intact), causing the branch to flop over at a 90° angle. The plant responds to this "injury" by forming a thick "knuckle" of reinforced tissue at the bend point and flooding the branch with growth hormones. The result: thicker stems, increased nutrient flow, and bigger buds.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Choose a branch: Target tall/stretchy branches in veg or early flower (first 2 weeks)
Find the spot: Pick a location 8-12" from the top (not too close to growing tip)
Soften the stem: Gently squeeze/roll the stem between fingers for 10-15 seconds
Feel for softness: Stem should feel slightly squishy when ready
Bend slowly: Bend to 90° angle - you may feel/hear a slight crack inside (that's good!)
Support if needed: If branch flops too much, use tape or tie to support temporarily (2-3 days)
Watch the knuckle form: Within 24-48 hours, a thick callus forms at bend (the "knuckle")
Branch grows back up: Growing tip turns upward within 3-5 days
⏰ When to Do It
Timing: Late veg or first 2 weeks of flower (during the stretch)
Recovery: 24-48 hours for knuckle formation, 3-5 days for full recovery
Multiple Bends: Can super crop multiple branches, but space out by 3-5 days
Avoid After Flower Week 3: Stems become woody and won't bend - will snap instead
💡 How It Works
When you damage the inner tissue (xylem/phloem), the plant responds with a "wound response" - it floods the area with auxins and other growth hormones to repair the damage. This creates the thick knuckle (extra vascular tissue) which improves nutrient/water flow to everything above the bend. The stress also triggers increased resin production as a defense mechanism. It's controlled damage for enhanced growth.
✓ Pros
Increases branch thickness and strength
Boosts yield on super cropped branches
Controls height mid-flower (emergency technique)
Increases resin production (stress response)
Can be combined with any training method
Fast recovery (3-5 days)
Great for stubborn tall branches
✗ Cons
High stress - can shock weak plants
Risk of full snap if done wrong
Scary for beginners (feels like you're hurting it)
SCROG (super crop tall branches to bring them down to screen level), LST (super crop stubborn woody branches that won't bend), Topping (super crop the new tops if they grow too tall)
Visual Guide: Super Cropping Technique
⚠️ What If You Snap It Completely?
Don't panic! If you accidentally snap a branch clean through:
1. Immediately align the broken pieces back together
2. Wrap tightly with grafting tape, electrical tape, or zip ties
3. Support the branch with a stake if needed
4. Leave tape on for 7-10 days 80% of clean breaks heal successfully if taped immediately. The plant will form an even BIGGER knuckle.
8. Lollipopping
Remove the Bottom Third - Focus Energy on Top Colas Only
BEGINNER
📖 What It Is
Lollipopping is the practice of removing ALL lower growth (leaves, branches, bud sites) from the bottom third of the plant. This includes anything that won't receive direct light or will produce small, airy "larf" buds. The result is a plant that looks like a lollipop - a bare stem with a bushy top. All energy goes to the top colas, producing bigger, denser, higher-quality buds.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Timing is key: Lollipop right before flip (last day of veg) OR day 1 of flower
Identify the line: Look at your canopy from the side - where does light stop penetrating?
Remove lower branches: Cut off entire branches from bottom third of plant (clean cut at main stem)
Remove lower bud sites: On remaining branches, remove lower bud sites that are shaded
Remove fan leaves: Strip large fan leaves from lower third (they're just stealing energy)
Leave the top 2/3: Everything that gets direct light stays
Be aggressive: Don't be shy - if it's in shadow, it goes
Repeat in flower: Do a second light lollipop around day 21 of flower (remove any new lower growth)
⏰ When to Do It
Primary Lollipop: Last day of veg OR day 1-3 of flower
Secondary Lollipop: Day 21 of flower (light cleanup)
Don't Lollipop After Week 3 of Flower: Plant is focused on bud production - stressing it now reduces yield
💡 How It Works
Cannabis plants have finite energy. Every bud site, leaf, and branch competes for resources. Lower growth that receives weak/indirect light will produce small, larfy buds that aren't worth the energy investment. By removing these "energy vampires," you redirect 100% of the plant's resources to the top canopy where buds get strong light and will actually develop properly. Less total buds, but much higher quality and density.
✓ Pros
Bigger, denser top buds
Eliminates larf (no popcorn buds)
Better airflow (reduces mold/PM risk)
Easier to harvest (fewer small buds to trim)
Focuses energy where it matters
Essential for SCROG (remove everything below screen)
Simple technique - just prune
✗ Cons
Reduces total bud count
Stressful if done wrong/too late
Removes potential clone sites
Can shock plant if too aggressive
Hard to undo once removed
Not ideal for outdoor grows (sunlight reaches everywhere)
🔗 Combines Well With
SCROG (essential - remove everything below screen), SOG (remove lower 1-2 nodes), Mainlining (built into the technique), Any training method (always beneficial indoors)
Visual Guide: Before vs After Lollipopping
9. Defoliation
Strategic Leaf Removal - Controversial But Effective for Light Penetration
INTERMEDIATE
📖 What It Is
Defoliation is the selective removal of fan leaves during specific stages of growth to improve light penetration to lower bud sites and increase airflow. Unlike lollipopping (which removes branches), defoliation targets large fan leaves that shade bud sites. This technique is controversial - some growers swear by it, others say it reduces yield by removing "solar panels." The key is moderation: never remove more than 30% of foliage at once.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Timing - Day 1 of Flower: Remove large fan leaves blocking lower bud sites
Target the worst offenders: Focus on leaves shading multiple bud sites
Remove 20-30% max: Never strip the plant bare - leave plenty of leaves
Cut clean: Use sterile scissors, cut at the petiole (leaf stem base)
Open the canopy: Goal is light penetration + airflow, not complete defoliation
Timing - Day 21 of Flower: Second light defoliation (10-20% removal)
Focus on interior: Remove leaves blocking bud sites, creating "windows" for light
Stop after week 3: No defoliation after day 21 - let plant focus on buds
⏰ When to Do It
Primary Defoliation: Day 1 of flower (20-30% removal)
Secondary Defoliation: Day 21 of flower (10-20% removal)
NEVER after week 3 of flower - plant needs leaves for photosynthesis during bud development
Recovery: 24-48 hours of slowed growth, then rapid rebound
💡 How It Works
The theory: Large fan leaves block light from reaching lower bud sites, causing them to stay small. By removing strategic leaves, you allow light to penetrate deeper into the canopy, triggering more sites to develop into quality buds. Improved airflow also reduces mold/PM risk. The controversy: Leaves are the plant's energy factories - removing them reduces photosynthesis capacity. The balance is key: remove just enough to help, not hurt.
✓ Pros
Increases light to lower bud sites
Better airflow (reduces mold risk)
Can increase lower bud development
Opens dense canopies (esp. with SCROG)
Makes watering/inspecting easier
Can trigger stress response (more resin)
✗ Cons
Highly controversial (many growers against it)
Removes photosynthetic capacity
Stresses plant (slows growth 24-48hrs)
Easy to overdo (too much = yield loss)
Timing must be precise
Not needed with good training (LST/SCROG)
Can reduce yield if done wrong
🔗 Combines Well With
SCROG (open up dense screen canopy), SOG (light defoliation on packed plants), High plant count grows (improve airflow)
⚠️ The Defoliation Debate
Pro-defoliation camp: "Leaves blocking bud sites are doing nothing - remove them and watch lower buds explode." Anti-defoliation camp: "Leaves are solar panels - removing them reduces yield. Train the plant instead." Our take: LIGHT defoliation (20-30% max) at the right times (day 1 and 21 of flower) can help with dense canopies and airflow. But if you train properly (LST/SCROG), you may not need to defoliate at all. Start conservative - you can always remove more leaves, but you can't put them back.
10. Schwazzing
Extreme Defoliation - Remove 70-90% of Leaves (NOT for Beginners!)
ADVANCED
📖 What It Is
Schwazzing (also called "The Three a Light Method") is an EXTREME defoliation technique where you remove 70-90% of all fan leaves at specific times during flower. Yes, you read that right - you nearly strip the plant bare, leaving only the smallest leaves at bud sites. The theory is that this massive stress triggers an explosive "survival response" where the plant pumps all energy into bud production. This is the most controversial technique in cannabis growing.
📋 Step-by-Step Instructions
Day 1 of Flower: Remove 70-90% of all fan leaves (yes, that much)
Leave only: Smallest leaves directly at bud sites, plus tips of branches
Be systematic: Work branch by branch, removing large fans methodically
Plant looks naked: This is correct - should look nearly bare
Recovery: Plant will shock for 48-72 hours, then explode with new growth
Day 20-21 of Flower: Second schwazzing - remove all regrowth fan leaves
Again, 70-90% removal: Strip it bare again, leave only sugar leaves
No more after day 21: Let plant finish - no more defoliation
⏰ When to Do It
First Schwazzing: Day 1 of flower (70-90% defoliation)
Second Schwazzing: Day 20-21 of flower (70-90% again)
Recovery Time: 48-72 hours of shock, then rapid explosive regrowth
ONLY for experienced growers with dialed-in environments and healthy plants
💡 How It Works (Theory)
Proponents claim that by removing nearly all leaves, you trigger a massive stress response where the plant floods bud sites with hormones to survive. With no leaves to maintain, all energy goes directly to buds. The extreme light penetration (no leaves blocking anything) causes explosive lower bud development. Critics say you're just starving the plant and reducing yield. Results are highly strain and environment dependent.
SCROG (schwazzing below screen), Mainlining (symmetrical structure handles stress better). Do NOT combine with other high-stress techniques.
⚠️ SCHWAZZING WARNING - Read Before Trying!
Schwazzing is NOT for beginners. This technique can kill your plants if:
• Your environment isn't dialed in (need perfect temps, humidity, VPD)
• Your plants aren't 100% healthy (any deficiency will be magnified)
• You're growing a finicky strain (some strains can't handle the stress)
• You make ANY other mistakes (overwatering, pH issues, pests)
Success rate for first-timers: ~30%. Most growers who try schwazzing without experience end up with reduced yields or dead plants. Master standard defoliation first (technique #9) before attempting schwazzing. If you're unsure, DON'T DO IT.
Technique Comparison Table
Side-by-side comparison of all 10 training methods
Technique
Difficulty
Stress Level
Veg Time Added
Yield Increase
Time Investment
Best For
Topping
Beginner
High
+1-2 weeks
20-40%
Low (5 min)
Height control, multiple colas
FIMming
Beginner
Medium
+1 week
30-50%
Low (3 min)
Bushy plants, 4+ tops
LST
Beginner
None/Low
None
20-30%
High (daily)
Small spaces, even canopy
SCROG
Intermediate
Low
+2-4 weeks
40-60%
Very High (daily)
Tents, max light efficiency
SOG
Beginner
None
-2-4 weeks
Same/sqft
High (many plants)
Fast harvests, perpetual
Mainlining
Advanced
Very High
+4-6 weeks
30-50%
High (multi-week)
Perfectionists, symmetry
Super Cropping
Intermediate
High
None
10-20%
Low (10 min)
Height control, stubborn branches
Lollipopping
Beginner
Medium
None
Improves quality
Medium (1-2 hours)
All indoor grows, SCROG
Defoliation
Intermediate
Medium
None
Variable (+/-)
Medium (30-60 min)
Dense canopies, airflow
Schwazzing
Advanced
Extreme
None
Variable (+/-)
Medium (2-3 hours)
Experienced only, experimental
Training Schedule by Week (Vegetative)
When to apply each technique during the vegetative stage
Week 1-2
Seedling/Early Veg
No training yetFocus: Healthy growth
Week 3
Early Training Window
✓ Start LST✓ FIMming (optional)✓ First Mainlining top
Week 4
Primary Training
✓ Topping✓ Continue LST✓ Install SCROG screen
Week 5
Mid-Veg Training
✓ Super Cropping✓ Continue LST/SCROG✓ Second topping (if doing 4+ colas)
Week 6
Late Veg / Pre-Flip
✓ Final LST adjustments✓ SCROG screen 70% full✓ Lollipop bottom third
✓ Continue SCROG tucking✓ Super Cropping (if needed)✓ Light LST
Week 3
End of Stretch
✓ Final lollipop cleanup (day 21)✓ Second defoliation (day 21)✓ Second schwazzing (day 21 - advanced)⛔ STOP all training after this
Week 4-8+
Bud Development
⛔ NO trainingFocus: Feeding, environmentLet plant focus on buds
Which Training Method Is Right for You?
Interactive decision guide to choose your ideal technique
What's your experience level?
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Beginner Path: What's your main goal?
Intermediate Path: What's your setup?
Advanced Path: Choose your challenge
✅ Recommendation: LST (Low Stress Training)
Why: Perfect for beginners - no cutting, fully reversible, zero stress. Creates even canopy and controls height without risk. Best first training technique to learn.
Next steps: Read the LST section above, get soft plant ties from Toledo, start bending when plant is 3-4 weeks old.
✅ Recommendation: Topping
Why: Simple, effective, and beginner-friendly. One clean cut turns 1 cola into 2 (or 4, 8+). Best for creating multiple main colas quickly.
Next steps: Read the Topping section above, sterilize scissors, top above 4th node. Combine with LST for best results.
✅ Recommendation: SOG (Sea of Green)
Why: Fastest seed-to-harvest time (10-12 weeks). Minimal training, many small plants, great for perpetual harvests. Check your local plant count laws first!
Next steps: Read the SOG section above, get clones or rooted cuttings, pack 9-16 per tent, flip after 1-2 weeks veg.
✅ Recommendation: Lollipopping
Why: Simplest way to improve bud quality. Remove lower growth that won't get light, focus all energy on top colas. Works with any setup.
Next steps: Read the Lollipopping section above, get pruning scissors from Toledo, lollipop on day 1 of flower.
✅ Recommendation: SCROG (Screen of Green)
Why: Maximum yield for tent grows. Screen creates perfect even canopy, every bud site gets direct light. 40-60% yield increase possible.
Next steps: Read the SCROG section above, get trellis netting from Toledo (2x2" or 3x3"), install 8-12" above pots, fill screen to 70% before flip.
✅ Recommendation: Super Cropping
Why: Emergency height control mid-flower. Also increases branch strength and yield on cropped branches. Great for stubborn tall colas.
Next steps: Read the Super Cropping section above, squeeze stems gently until soft, bend to 90°. Do during first 2 weeks of flower only.
✅ Recommendation: Strategic Defoliation
Why: Dense canopies block light and trap humidity. Light defoliation (20-30%) opens canopy, improves airflow, reduces mold risk. Controversial but effective when done right.
Next steps: Read the Defoliation section above, defoliate on day 1 and day 21 of flower. Start conservative - less is more.
✅ Recommendation: Mainlining / Manifolding
Why: You want perfection. Mainlining creates 8-16 perfectly symmetrical colas of equal size. Beautiful, effective, but time-consuming (4-6 weeks training).
Next steps: Read the Mainlining section above, top at 3rd node, strip all growth below, repeat toppings for 8-16 colas. Patience required!
✅ Recommendation: SCROG + Mainlining Combo
Why: The ultimate yield setup. Mainline to create 8-16 even tops, then SCROG them into perfect screen. Maximum light efficiency meets perfect symmetry. 6-8 week veg time.
Next steps: Read Mainlining and SCROG sections, plan for extended veg time, enjoy show-quality results.
⚠️ Recommendation: Schwazzing (PROCEED WITH CAUTION)
Why: You're experienced, confident, and want to experiment. Schwazzing is extreme (70-90% defoliation) and controversial. Success rate for first-timers is ~30%. Can increase OR decrease yield dramatically.
Next steps: Read the Schwazzing section including ALL warnings. Only attempt with healthy plants in dialed-in environment. Have backup plants in case it fails.
Essential Training Equipment from Toledo
Professional tools for every training technique - available in-store
Our expert team can recommend the right tools for your training method and setup. We stock everything you need from professional-grade pruning scissors to SCROG netting.
